Materials:
When using the suggested materials, it will be about 27 cm tall.
• Yarn (DK), with me: DROPS Muskat (this is a mercerized DK cotton yarn)
In total I used a little more than 350 g yarn. Since I wanted to reduce my stock
of this yarn, the result was a combination of colors. Which colors you choose is
of course up to you :o)
• Some black and white yarn for the eyes
• Hook size in suitable size (with me: 2.5 mm)
• Stuffing
• LED-Lamp (about 9,5 cm in diameter) – with me: Aukey recharchable Mini RGB
Light (Link) ATTENTION! It has to be unconditionally LED, everything else gets hot
– fire hazard! If you use a lamp with (not rechargeable) batteries please remove the
batteries when the lamp is not used for some days – otherwise it can catch fire!
The listed wool and hook sizes are only suggestions. It is, of course, entirely your
personal choice, which yarn you use.
Please keep in mind that different yarn may result in a bigger or smaller piece. Make
sure to adapt your hook size according to your yarn and personal tension. When
crocheting Amigurumis you should use a much smaller needle size than indicated on
the label or you would use it for other crochet projects so that no holes are made
when the piece is stuffed.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
MR = magic ring inc = increase
sc = single crochet dec = decrease
ch = chain BLO = back loop only
slst = slip stitch FLO = front loop only
st = stitch bs = Bobble stitch (see explanation above)
(-) x = repeat inside of () for x nr of times
Special stitch: bobble stitch
Bobble stitches are usually made of 5 unfinished double crochet stitches. In some
cases I have to vary those stitches, for example when I need a bigger bobble for a
toe or something like that. I add in brackets how many and which of these unfinished
stitches the bobble consists of, e. g. bs x5 (tr 3) <- this means: make 5 bobble
stitches using 3 unfinished treble crochet stitches.
Stummelchen is a very special case. I used 2 stitches of the previous round for each
toe, so make 4 unfinished treble crochet stitches in the first stitch and directly 4
more unfinished treble crochet stitches in the next stitch, and NOW pull the yarn
through all 9 loops on hook, sc 1.
How to make those bigger bobble stitches for his toes:
Wrap the yarn twice around the hook (for tr), insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over
and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and
pull through 2 loops on hook – this unfinished treble crochet is ready for now and
there should remain 2 loops on your hook now. Start the next unfinished treble
crochet: wrap the yarn twice around the hook, insert hook in the same stitch as
before, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn
over again and pull through 2 loops on hook, there should remain 3 loops on hook
now. Repeat this until you have made 5 of these unfinished treble crochet stitches
(there should be 6 loops on hook), wrap the yarn twice around the hook, insert hook
in the next stitch now and
make 5 more unfinished treble
crochet stitches into this
stitch (you have 11 loops on
hook), finally yarn over and
pull the yarn through all 11
loops in one go, chain 1,
tighten. Usually the bobble is
now on the wrong side (at the
back). No problem, just push it
to the front. You can also
push the bobble to the front
while crocheting the following
single crochet.
Regular bobble stitches:
Wrap the yarn around the hook, insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull
through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook – this unfinished double crochet
is ready for now and there should remain 2 loops on your hook now. Start the next
unfinished double crochet: wrap the yarn around the hook, insert hook in the same
stitch as before, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on
hook, there should remain 3 loops on hook now. Repeat this until you have made the
required number of unfinished double crochet stitches (usually 5 – so you have 6
loops on hook), finally yarn over and pull the yarn through all loops in one go, tighten
and sc 1 in next stitch. Usually the bobble is on the wrong side, the back side now.
No problem, just push it to the front. You can also push the bobble to the front while
crocheting the single crochet.
For the color changes I didn’t use any special technique this time, I simply knotted
the different colors together and then hidden the knots on the inside.
But now it finally starts :o)
Body:
Main color
Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.
The length of the foundation chain depends on the height of the light. If a very flat
lamp is used, the foundation chain must be approx. 5 chains longer than the lamp is
high, since the fabric becomes even more narrow, when crocheting and a flat lamp
otherwise falls out too easily. With a rather spherical lamp like mine, it is enough if
the foundation chain is as long as the lamp is high (see photos), then the lamp sticks
out a bit later. My stitch numbers are here only for guideline, this must be adapted if
necessary.
1. ch 21, starting in 2nd chain from hook: (loose) slst 20, ch 1, turn
Now crochet as many rows with loose slip stitches in the back loops only until the
fabric stretches around the lamp, not too loose, not too tight. The slip stitches
produce an elastic fabric that can hold the lamp very comfortably later without the
lamp falling out, but can still be easily removed for charging.
the yarn tail from the beginning and the working loop should be on the same side, if
not, undo one row or crochet 1 row more (depending on whether it is rather tight or
very loosely around), it follows a last row, a final row follows, connecting the first
and the last row.
Now fold the piece so that the working loop is at the back and the first row (with the
starting thread) is at the front, insert hook through the first stitch of the front row
and pull the working loop through. Furthermore always work through the next front
stitch and the back loop of the stitch at the back and crochet 19 more loose slip
stitches, do not fasten off.
On the inside (which is later turned outwards) there is almost no difference to the
other rows ( Picture below middle).
Still not fasten off, crochet along one of the edges in spiral rounds, the pretty side
points to you when you rejoin. Crochet a a single crochet at the end of each rib in the
loops marked in the picture (top right). I had 48 ribs and 48 stitches in round one. If
that is not the case with you, no problem at all. In the following (second) round you
take off so many stitches evenly spread that you have a multiple of 6 at the end of
this round and in the following rounds always decrease 6 stitches per round until the
hole is closed and a kind of “jar” is formed. It looked like this to me:
1. sc 48 along the edge (48)
2. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)
3. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)
4. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)
5. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
6. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)
7. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)
8. dec x6 (6)
Fasten off, close, cut the yarn (just secure the thread and put it on the back – it’s
inside later).
Now turn the piece so that the nice sides are inside.
Now rejoin on the other edge, crochet single crochet along the edge at the end of
each rib, the “jar” points backwards. Again, you can easily adapt the number of
stitches, this time in the second row by increasing up to a multiple of 12:
1. sc 48 along the egde (48)
2. (sc 3, inc) x12 (60)
3. (sc 4, inc) x12 (72)
4. (sc 5, inc) x12 (84)
5. (sc 6, inc) x12 (96)
6. (sc 7, inc) x12 (108)
7.-24. (18 Rounds) sc in each st around (108)
25. (sc 16, dec) x6 (102)
26. (sc 15, dec) x6 (96)
27. (sc 14, dec) x6 (90)
28. (sc 13, dec) x6 (84)
29. (sc 12, dec) x6 (78)
30. (sc 11, dec) x6 (72)
31. (sc 10, dec) x6 (66)
Gently and carefully stuff to the edge (it should now
look like the photos on the right).
32. (sc 9, dec) x6 (60)
33. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)
34. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)
35. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)
36. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)
37. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)
38. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Mostly stuff, when stuffing make sure that the shape of
the “jar” at the front is kept – after all, the lamp should
be inserted there later.
39. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)
40. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)
Finish stuffing.
41. dec x6 (6)
Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.
The most tricky one is already finished :o)
Kopf:
Stuff and shape the head so that no more dents are
visible.
1. sc 6 in MR (6)
2. inc x6 (12)
3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)
7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)
8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)
9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)
10. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)
11. (sc 9, inc) x6 (66)
12. (sc 10, inc) x6 (72)
13. (sc 11, inc) x6 (78)
14. (sc 12, inc) x6 (84)
15. (sc 13, inc) x6 (90)
16. (sc 14, inc) x6 (96)
17. (sc 15, inc) x6 (102)
18. (sc 16, inc) x6 (108)
19. inc, sc 51, inc x3, sc 51, inc x2 (114)
20. sc in each st around (114)
21. sc 1, inc, sc 51, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 51, (sc 1, inc) x2 (120)
22. sc in each st around (120)
23. sc 2, inc, sc 51, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 51, (sc 2, inc) x2 (126)
24. sc in each st around (126)
25. sc 3, inc, sc 51, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 51, (sc 3, inc) x2 (132)
26.-34. (8 Rounds) sc in each st around (132)
27. (sc 20, dec) x6 (126)
28. (sc 19, dec) x6 (120)
29. (sc 18, dec) x6 (114)
30. (sc 17, dec) x6 (108)
31. (sc 16, dec) x6 (102)
32. (sc 15, dec) x6 (96)
33. (sc 14, dec) x6 (90)
34. (sc 13, dec) x6 (84)
35. (sc 12, dec) x6 (78)
36. (sc 11, dec) x6 (72)
37. (sc 10, dec) x6 (66)
38. (sc 9, dec) x6 (60)
39. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)
40. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)
41. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)
42. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)
43. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)
44. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
45. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)
46. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)
47. dec x6 (6)
Fasten off, weave in loose ends.
Ear (make):
1. sc 6 in MR (6)
2. inc x6 (12)
3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)
7.-20. (14 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)
Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing.
Now fold the top as shown in the photo above (middle) – looks like a small “W”, the
main color is on the outside and sew together with some stitches through all layers.
Tail:
1. sc 6 in MR (6)
2. inc x6 (12)
3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
6.-10. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)
15. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
16. (sc 2, dec) x6 (30)
Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.
Foot/Leg (make 2):
You’ll need a special stitch for the toes, see explanation
above. See explanation at the beginning.
1. sc 6 in MR (6)
2. inc x6 (12)
3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
1. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)
2. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)
3. sc in each st around (42)
4. 4x 2 special stitches made of 5 tr (see explanation at the beginning) and ch 1 at
the end of each toe to secure it (ch doesn’t count as stitch, this could also be
omitted, but it will be easier with it) and sc 3 <- you have 4 toes now, 22 fM
(42)
5. sc in each st around – crochet 5 sc over each toe, skip the chains (42)
6.-12. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (42)
13. sc 1, (sc 1, dec) x6, sc 23 (36)
14. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)
15. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Stuff and shape the foot.
16.-30. (15 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)
Stuff approx. ⅔ of the leg.
Fold the top edge together (if necessary: sc until you reach the fold) and seam using
a single crochet along the top edge, crocheting through both stitches.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Arm (make 2):
1. sc 6 in MR (6)
2. inc x6 (12)
3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
6.-8. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)
9. make a special stitch using dc 6 (for thumb use double crochet and work only in
1 stitch of the previous round), sc 29 (30)
10. sc in each st around (30)
11. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
12. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)
Stuff and shape the hand, the arm isn’t stuffed.
13.-37. (25 Rounds) sc in each st around (18)
Fold the top edge together (if necessary: sc until you reach the fold) and seam using
a single crochet along the top edge, crocheting through both stitches.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Eye (make 2):
Black, worked in joined rounds.
1. sc 6 in MR, join round with a slst in 1st st, ch 1 (6)
2. inc x6, join round with a slst in 1st st (12)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Now sew the head on the body (best
done with the mattress stitch, so nothing
wobbles), sew legs and tail at the
bottom/back of the body (it must pinned
first to make sure that the Stummelchen
is well balanced and does not overturn).
Now sew the arms left and right directly
under the head, the eyes attach the eyes
in the lower third and if you like
embroider highlights with white thread.
That’s it – the Glow Stummelchen is ready :o)
