Amigurumi Teddy Bear Benno Free Crochet Pattern

Materials:

When using Catania / Catona (or similar) it will be about 20 cm tall, with Katia Bambi

about 50 cm.

• Wool Sport weight and super bulky, for me: Schachenmayr Catania / Scheepjes

Catona – No. 249 for the little guy or Katia Bambi – No. 307 for the big one (I used

about 3 skeins á 100 g), some black and white, optional: colors of choice for the

honeypot and some more black and some yellow for the bee buddy

• Crochet hook in suitable size (for me: 2.0 mm and 5.0 mm)

• Stuffing

• Eyes in suitable size (for me: 10 mm for the little, 20 mm for the big one)

• optional: Plastic (safety) joints (little one for me: 2x 25 mm – arms and 2x 35 mm

legs – big one: 2x 45 mm – arms, 2x 65 mm – legs und 1x 55 mm – head)

• optional: Pipe cleaners

The specifications of the wool and needle sizes are only examples/references. Please

keep in mind that different yarn may result in a bigger or smaller piece. Make sure to

adapt your hook size according to your yarn and personal tension. When crocheting

Amigurumis you should use a much smaller needle size than indicated on the label or

you would use it for other crochet projects so that no holes are made when the piece

is stuffed.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

MR = magic ring inc = increase

sc = single crochet dec = decrease

ch = chain BLO = back loop only

hdc = half double crochet FLO = front loop only

slst = slip stitch st = stitch / sts = stitches

(-) x = repeat inside of () for x nr of times

Crochet in continuous rounds (spirals), unless

otherwise stated.

For help with invisible color changes, increases and

decreases, please visit the „Tipps, Tricks and

Leg (make 2):

You will start with an oval (see the diagram).

Stuff the leg while crocheting.

1. ch 6, sc 4, sc 3 in last stitch, rotate 180 degrees

and crochet along the opposite side of the

foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in last stitch (12)

2. inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2 (18)

3. sc 1, inc, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x2 (24)

4. sc 2, inc, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x2 (30)

5.-8. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)

9. sc 8, dec x6, sc 10 (24)

10. sc 4, dec x6, sc 8 (18)

11. sc 1, dec, sc 9, (sc 1, dec) x2 (15)

12. sc in each st around (15)

13. (sc 2, inc) x5 (20)

14.-16. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (20)

Move your roundmarker in the middle of the backside (crochet a few stitches or go

back, depending on where your marker is).

17. dec, sc 6, inc x3, sc 5, dec x2 (20)

18.-19. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (20)

Move roundmarker again in the middle of the backside.

20. inc, sc 6, dec x3, sc 5, inc x2 (20)

21. sc in each st around (20)

22. (sc 3, inc) x4 (24)

23. sc in each st around (24)

The chains and skipped stitches of the following round are

for the quite thick pins of the plastic joints. It may be

necessary to adjust the number of stitches in front of the

chains and the chains themselves by inserting the joints and

checking where the pin must pass through the fabric and

how wide it is. If you use no or other joints (with cotter pins

for example), simply crochet another (normal) round sc.

24. right leg: sc 4, ch 3 / skip 3 sts, sc 17 (24)

25. right leg: sc 4, sc 3 in chain space, sc 17 (24)

24. left leg: sc 17, ch 3 / skip 3 sts, sc 4 (24)

25. left leg: sc 17, sc 3 in chain space, sc 4 (24)

From here both legs are worked equal.

26. sc in each st around (24)

Insert joint now (the part with the plastic pin/cotter pin),

stuffed is – of course – only on the flat side of the joint.

27. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

28. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

29. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

Arm (make 2):

Stuff the arm while crocheting.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 3, inc) x3 (15)

4.-6. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (15)

7. hdc 5, sc 2, FLO: slst 6, both loops: sc 2 (15)

8. hdc 5, sc 2, FLO: sc 6, both loops: sc 2 (15)

9.-15. (7 Rounds) sc in each st around (15)

16. sc 1, hdc 5, sc 2, FLO: slst 6, both loops: sc 1 (15)

17. sc 1, hdc 5, sc 2, FLO: sc 6, both loops: sc 1 (15)

18. sc 1, hdc 5, sc 9 (15)

19.-25. (7 Rounds) sc in each st around (15)

Fold flat, hand points to the side, for the right arm: mark the stitch in the fold to the

left of the active loop (i.e. in crochet direction) and until then crochet sc (for me:

sc 6); for the left arm: mark the stitch in the fold to the right of the active loop (i.e.

against the crochet direction) and undo the stitches

or mark the appropriate stitch.

In the following round too – as with the legs – adapt

the positions for the chains (or omit them if you do

not need them and replace them with sc).

26. sc 3, ch 2 / skip 2 sts, sc 10 (15)

27. sc 3, sc 2 in chain space, sc 10 (15)

28. sc in each st around (15)

Insert joint now (the part with the plastic pin/cotter

pin).

29. (sc 3, dec) x3 (12)

30. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

Body:

Stuff the body while crocheting.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

10. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

Move round marker to the middle of the backside. In the following round you’ll make

the gaps for the pins of the joints. Here also: adapt the amount of chains/skipped

stitches to fit your pin of the joint. If you don’t need the gaps replace these stitches

with sc.

11. sc 12, ch 3 / skip 3 sts, sc 30, ch 3 / skip 3 sts, sc 12 (60)

12. sc 12, sc 3 in chain space, sc 30, sc 3 in chain space, sc 12 (60)

13.-21. (9 Rounds) sc in each st around (60)

At this point, attach the legs, if you use joints. Make sure that the legs point forward

(for orientation: the round starts at the back). Move the round marker back to the

middle, if necessary (it wasn’t with me).

22. sc 10, (sc 3, dec) x8, sc 10 (52)

23. sc 13, dec, (sc 6, dec) x3, sc 13 (48)

24. sc in each st around (48)

25. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

26. sc in each st around (42)

27. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

28. sc in each st around (36)

29. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

30. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Move round marker to the middle of the backside. In the

following round you’ll make the gaps for the pins of the

joints. Again: adapt or omit.

31. sc 4, ch 2 / skip 2 sts, sc 12, ch 2 / skip 2 sts, sc 4 (24)

32.-35. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

Without head joint: Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Attach the arms and finish stuffing the body.

With head joint it goes a bit further:

Attach the arms and finish stuffing the body, carefully stuff the neck, otherwise the

head will wobble later. Put the joint for the head in (this one with the plastic pin/

cotter pin – see pictures below).

36. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

37. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

38. (sc 2, dec) x3 (9)

Slip stitch 1, cut the yarn, thread the end thread through a tapestry or darning needle

and thread all front loops of the last round, pull gently to close the gap around the

pin. Weave in loose ends.

Eyeball:

White

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Head (without joint):

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. sc in each st around (18)

5. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

6. sc in each st around (24)

7. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

8. sc 9, inc x12, sc 9 (42)

9. sc 9, (sc 1, inc) x12, sc 9 (54)

10.-20. (11 Rounds) sc in each st around (54)

If safety eyes are used, it is best to stuff the head a little and mark the spots for the

eyes, then remove the fibrefill. Insert the pins through a stitch of the previously

crocheted eyeball (where you would also insert your hook), then attach them to the

head between round 7 and 8 with approx 12 stitches in between, align the eyeball

before finally pushing it down.

21. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

22. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

23. sc in each st around (42)

24. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

25. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

26. sc in each st around (30)

27. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

28. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

29. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing.

30. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

Head (with joint):

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. sc in each st around (18)

5. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

6. sc in each st around (24)

7. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

8. sc 9, inc x12, sc 9 (42)

9. sc 9, (sc 1, inc) x12, sc 9 (54)

10.-16. (7 Rounds) sc in each st around (54)

Move the round marker so that the first stitch of the following round is exactly in the

middle of the bottom of the head (for a better understanding: this is the point where

the pin of the joint comes through later, i.e. the connection point between head and

body). The increases are on the top of the head. I didn’t really have to move

anything, it was just in the right place for me :o)

17. ch 1 / skip 1 st, sc 53 (54) <- you may here also adapt the amount of ch/skip

to fit your pin

18. sc 1 in chain space, sc 53 (54)

19.-20. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (54)

If safety eyes are used, it is best to stuff the head a little and mark the spots for the

eyes, then remove the fibrefill. Insert the pins through a stitch of the previously

crocheted eyeball (where you would also insert your hook), then attach them to the

head between round 7 and 8 with approx 12 stitches in between, align the eyeball

before finally pushing it down.

21. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

22. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

23. sc in each st around (42)

24. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

25. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

26. sc in each st around (30)

Place the head on the body and close the joint.

27. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Stuff and shape the head.

28. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

29. (sc 2, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing.

30. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

Ear (make 2):

1. sc 7 in MR (7)

2. inc x7 (14)

3.-4. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (14)

4. dec x7 (7)

Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Nose:

Black

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. inc x3, sc 3, inc x3 – leave the remaining stitches unworked

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

You can – of course – embroider the nose.

Tail:

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3.-4. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (12)

Fasten off, do not stuff, do not close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Finishing:

First, the eye sockets are formed (if safety eyes have been used, the needle can be

inserted as close to the eyes as possible and the steps can also be made). First mark

the spots for the eyes with pins. Now insert a needle with a sturdy thread at the

bottom of the head approximately in the middle and come out at one of the eye

marks, reinsert a stitch offset and return to the starting point. Repeat this step

several times, tighten the thread gently in between so that the eye socket forms.

Repeat for the second eye. Finally – if not done yet – attach the eyes at the eyeballs

and than the eyes to the head.

Now pin the nose to the face and sew on all around

with the end thread. Stuffing is not necessary, but you

can fill in some stuffing before closing (I didn’t do it). If

there is enough thread left, use this (or a new thread)

to embroider mouth and eyebrows.

Now fold the ears flat and sew them to the left and

right of the head.

Place the head on the body and sew it on (preferably

with mattress stitch) – stuff again before closing if

necessary.

Finally I attached a few threads of wool to the top of

the head and brushed them out.

What’s left? Right, the tail. Sew this one on the back of

the butt as well.

Benno is done now.

If you like, you can crochet a big pot of honey for the sweet tooth and maybe even a

little bee buddy :o)

Honey pot:

For me: charcoal (393)

1. sc 9 in MR (9)

2. inc x9 (18)

3. (sc 1, inc) x9 (27)

4. (sc 2, inc) x9 (36)

5. (sc 3, inc) x9 (45)

6. (sc 4, inc) x9 (54)

7. BLO: sc in each st around (54)

8. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

9. sc in each st around (60)

10. (sc 9, inc) x6 (66)

11.-21. (11 Rounds) sc in each st around (66)

22. (sc 9, dec) x6 (60)

23. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)

24. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

25. FLO: sc in each st around (48)

26. FLO: (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

27. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

28. (sc 9, inc) x6 (66)

29. sc in each st around (66)

30. (sc 9, dec) x6 (60)

31. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)

32. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

First turn the border outwards so that you can reach the free loops of round 25.

Rejoin with yellow in one of these free loops of round 25 for the Honey (I’ve used the

same as for the bear):

1. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

2. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

3. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

4. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Stuff the pot, make sure that the bottom remains as flat as possible.

5. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

6. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing.

7. dec x6 (6)

Slip stitch 1, cut the yarn, thread the end thread through a tapestry or darning needle

and thread all front loops of the last round, pull gently to close the gap, weave in

loose ends.

Rejoin with the color of the pot in one of the free loops at the bottom, the top points

downwards, slst 1 in each of these free loops around, fasten off and weave in loose

ends. This round gives the pot more stability.

Now the upper border is formed, I have used pipe cleaner as stuffing, of course

normal fibrefill or similar can also be used. Fold up the previously rolled down edge

and fold it inwards. If you use pipe cleaners as filling, you can already shape and

insert it (I used quite thick pipe cleaners and doubled it). Lay the border around it and

use the end thread to sew stitch by stitch with the still free loops of round 26. This is

– especially later – a bit fiddly, but the look is simply more beautiful, as if you would

fold it outwards (and it would surely also be fiddly there). If you use normal stuffing,

stuff while crocheting, do not overstuff, just so that no dents are visible.

Label:

White

Start with an oval again.

For a more even result, crochet the label in joined rounds (join each round with a slst

and chain 1).

1. ch 11, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 9, sc 3 in last st, rotate 180 degrees

and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 8, sc 2 in last

st, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (22)

2. inc, sc 8, inc x3, sc 8, inc x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (28)

3. sc 1, inc, sc 8, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 1, inc) x2, slst in 1st st (34)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Embroider „Honey“ with contrasting color. I’m sure this looks a lot nicer with you

than it does with me :o)

Finally, sew the label with the end thread on the pot.

I crocheted a ruby colored ribbon: ch 38 (adapt if

necessary), hdc 36, starting in 3rd stitch from hook.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Put the riboon

around the pot and sew the ends together, weave in

loose ends.

Bee buddy (Upper part):

I used another yellow here (208) but you can also use

the „bear yellow“.

1. sc 7 in MR (7)

2. inc x7 (14)

3. (sc 1, inc) x7 (21)

4. (sc 2, inc) x7 (28)

5.-9. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (28)

10. (sc 2, dec) x7 (21)

11. (sc 1, dec) x7 (14)

12. slst in each st around (14)

Stuff and shape the upper part.

Color change to black.

13. FLO: (sc 1, inc) x7 (21)

14.-15. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (21)

16. (sc 1, dec) x7 (14)

Fasten off, do not close, leave a long tail for sewing, finish stuffing.

Bee buddy (Lower part):

Black

1. sc 4 in MR (4)

2. sc in each st around (4)

3. (sc 1, inc) x2 (6)

4. (sc 1, inc) x3 (9)

I recommend this method (Link) for the following color

changes, than it looks like this (right photo). Alternatively

you can also crochet in joined rounds.

5. yellow: sc in each st around (9)

6. black: (sc 2, inc) x3 (12)

7. yellow: sc in each st around (12)

8. black: (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

9. yellow: sc in each st around (18)

10. black: (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

11. yellow: sc in each st around (24)

12. black: sc in each st around (24)

13. yellow: sc in each st around (24)

14. black: sc in each st around (24)

Stuff it.

15. yellow: (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

16. black: (sc 2, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing.

17. black: dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

Pin upper and lower part together as shown at the photo

and sew it on.

Nose:

Yellow

1. sc 5 in MR (5)

2. inc x5 (10)

3.-5. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (10)

Stuff it.

6. dec x5 (5)

Fasten off, close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2):

Yellow

1. sc 4 in MR (4)

2.-9. (8 Rounds) sc in each st around (4) – sc 32 continuously counted

Fasten off, close, do not stuff or put some thin pipe cleaner in, leave a long tail for

sewing.

Foot (make 2):

Black

1. sc 5 in MR (5)

2. inc x5 (10)

3.-6. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (10)

7. dec x5 (5)

Fasten off, close, do not stuff, weave in loose ends.

Rejoin with yellow at the heel directly into the fabric (see left picture) and sc 4 as a

round (picture in the middle), crochet 6 more rounds (sc 4 each).

Antennae (make 2):

Black

1. ch 10, starting in 4th stitch from hook: slst 7 along the foundation chain

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Wings (make 2):

Weiß

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Place the two wings on top of each other (backs are touching) and sew them

together with 3-4 stitches.

Finally, sew arms, legs, nose, antennae and wings to the body of the bee and

embroider eyes and mouth as desired.

Now the little bee buddy and the honey pot are done too, congrats :o)

If you prefer Benno as a cuddly toy, then use a very soft, fluffy yarn (e.g. chenille

yarn) and of course a suitably larger hook (I used Katia Bambi and a 5 mm crochet

hook). So Benno looks like on the following photo: